Near Brussels, in the village of Éghezée, the restaurant “L’air du temps” opened its doors more than twenty years ago and has always managed to keep up with the times. Neither ahead, nor behind the times. Just there, anchored in the present, aware as time slowly and steadily passes, always making the best of it.
Chef Sang Hoon Degeimbre created this idyllic place, a passionate, self-taught cook, who now holds two Michelin stars and is ranked 10th in the We’re Smart guide.
Imagining such a unique restaurant without any culinary training sounds a bit crazy. Succeeding at it seems downright impossible. Nonetheless, when he opened the doors of L’air du temps on the 1st of July back in 1997, it was also his first day in a professional kitchen. A madness that Sang Hoon Degeimbre has a quite straightforward answer to: “I wanted to be my own chef“. And so his journey of discovering his own way of cooking began, guided by his desire and curiosity.
The magic recipe of L’air du temps is based on three ingredients: courage, passion and time. “Over the years, nature has taught me that nothing should be rushed, but that time should be allowed to run its course and that we should take advantage of what happens, good or bad.“
And time was needed, as was patience when the chef decided to grow his own vegetable garden adjoining the restaurant to offer his customers local and seasonal vegetables. With the help of Benoît Blairvacq, also a self-taught gardener, the two enthusiasts, guided by their palate and their dreams, succeeded in creating a 5-hectare paradise, which produces some of the most delectable vegetable dishes in the world. Here, the vegetables are only harvested when they are perfectly ripe and only an hour or two before serving. From the garden to the plate with the snap of a finger… well, almost.
Chef Degeimbre offers a gastronomic experience that never fails to surprise and invites his guests to savour the moment. As soon as we entered the restaurant, we were greeted by the attentive, smiling, and professional staff. The dining room, surrounded by huge windows, offers a view of the gardens that stretch out in front of the restaurant, giving the impression that one might be eating outside.
Observing the room, one thing immediately caught our eye. Above all the tables, something was floating in the air. “This is the bread” they explained. An airy and crispy tile of bread, both in looks and texture, that one should not be afraid to crack with their hands. Because if there’s one thing you need to know about this distinguished restaurant, it’s the idea that the dishes are meant to be savoured as if plucked right from nature, i.e. with your hands. “The first instruments for an optimal or offbeat appreciation of our cuisine are given to you by nature,” reads a sheet of paper placed on the plates.
Seated, we soon found ourselves admiring the vegetables we saw in the gorgeous garden mere moments ago, masterfully prepared and plated by the chef and his team. All the ingredients look splendid and “exceptionally natural”, which is the highest compliment we could pay to chef Degeimbre. “The most beautiful technique is one you don’t see“, explains the chef, who likes to experiment with a juicy bite of nature on the palate, enhanced by original seasoning to bring even more sensations.
In all their simplicity, vegetables are enhanced by distant flavours, such as a “mole” sauce (of Mexican origin) based on red beans and a multitude of spices, or preserved according to a specific fermentation process for a tangy and crunchy finish.
On our visit, we had a turnip kimchi, with foie gras and jasmine as an amuse-bouche, followed by a butter radish and wild garlic, accompanied by a turnip granita made from radish tops. In chef Degeimbre’s kitchen, there is a strict Zero-Waste policy!
As a main dish, chartreuse of white asparagus, fillet with seaweed, accompanied a shoulder of lamb confit that practically melted in our mouths.
To top it off, a world of the most delectable cheeses awaited us. Each cheese was presented “raw” and according to a specific preparation (fruits, spices, smoked hay) for a very unique taste.
Degeimbre’s kitchen certainly lives up to its goals of consistently surprising its guests. The flavoured water that accompanied each dish certainly left us in awe: from a pine tree and green curry water to peanut and roasted yeast water or a green pepper and roasted hazelnut juice. Not to worry, however, for the less adventurous and the wine lovers, there is also an excellent wine pairing for each menu.
Above all, Sang Hoon Degeimbre is a curious chef who takes nothing for granted. He wants to understand everything, to dissect and analyse each ingredient to find the best way to prepare it. Which is his own, and it is sublime.
For more information: airdutemps.be
If you are visiting Brussels, you can also discover his cuisine in his two restaurants, Vertige and San Sablon, offering urban gastronomy and celebrating the best products.