In a magnificent late 19th-century building in Esch-sur-Alzette, the Sidoni family runs one of the most renowned gourmet restaurants in the south of Luxembourg.
A noble building is worthy of an equally noble resident. And this noble building in the centre of Esch-sur-Alzette certainly struck gold when the Sidoni family moved in and opened gourmet restaurant La Maison Lefèvre ten years ago. The grand building was built in 1897 by one of the region’s greatest master builders of the time, entrepreneur Alfred Lefèvre. Lefèvre was responsible for major projects such as covering the Alzette river in Esch (for public health reasons), the imposing Hotel Alfa opposite Luxembourg City’s railway station and Clervaux Abbey. He built the house on Boulevard Kennedy for his family.
Now a listed building, No. 138 has been expertly preserved, with beautiful period windows running the length of the spacious terrace that take diners back to the style and elegance of a bygone era.
From brasserie to gourmet restaurant
In 2012, the Sidoni family, who had until then worked in textiles, decided to take over the Boulevard Kennedy restaurant, which had previously been known as Cœur Grenadine, Chez Tanzi and Momenti. “We came from the textile industry, so all we brought with us was our business know-how,” says Estelle Sidoni, the eldest daughter of Serge Sidoni, the owner of the splendid townhouse in Esch. “So we called on Tony Tintinger – the former chef at restaurant Clairefontaine – to set us on the right track. In those early days, we served brasserie dishes like cordon bleu and vol-au-vents. These simple dishes were accompanied by amuse-bouches and attentive service,” continues Estelle, who runs La Maison Lefèvre with her father Serge and sister Deborah.
Almost two years after La Maison Lefèvre opened its doors, Cédric Bertaux (previously in charge of the kitchens at Le Royal) was hired as head chef. His arrival propelled the restaurant into a higher class, where it has been a firm fixture ever since. “After David Formica and Xavier Rothe, this summer we welcomed Bruno Cornu to our kitchens. The chef, who hails from Nantes, has worked with big names (Editor’s note: Pierre Gagnaire, Michel Rostang and Joël Antunes, among others) and is taking the restaurant in exactly the direction we want: delicate, refined dishes made with high-quality ingredients sourced as locally as possible,” says the restaurant manager.
An eco-friendly future
To pursue their eco-friendly approach, the restaurant owners are working with the community gardens in Esch-sur-Alzette: “You’d be hard pushed to find a shorter route for organic produce – the gardens are right next door! They also invite us to taste-test all their experimental produce and products. They make a lot of condiments and lacto-ferments. These flavour enhancers enable us to create dishes that are not only unique, but also rich in health-boosting probiotics, and it’s great to be able to support such a fantastic local, social and community initiative.”
And to satisfy an eclectic clientele (business people, friends, couples and families), the new chef, who is “always on the lookout for the very best local partners”, focuses on dishes inspired by the classics, but with a clever contemporary twist.
The restaurant’s simple, yet tasteful decor is also regularly revamped. “We recently replaced all our tablecloths, but kept all the tables, which were sanded down and painted this summer, to brighten them up and give them a new lease of life!”
A visit to this historic jewel in Esch-sur-Alzette is an absolute must. Because one thing is certain: La Maison Lefèvre is a feast for both the eyes and the palate.
LA MAISON LEFÈVRE
138, Bd John Fitzgerald Kennedy — L-4171 Esch-sur-Alzette
Tel. + 352 / 26 53 05 04
lamaisonlefevre.lu