For some years now, coffee shops have been proudly calling themselves specialty coffee shops. Luxembourg is no exception to this trend, with numerous addresses in Luxembourg City and throughout the country. But what exactly does this term mean for us, consumers?
We had an exciting discussion on this topic with Thomas, who completed the SCA (Specialty Coffee Association) Coffee Skills Programme and is the head roaster behind Collette Coffee Craft. Pour yourself a cup of coffee and enjoy!
Specialty coffee : a definition
In simple terms, specialty coffee refers to a category of unique, high-quality coffee (beans carefully selected for their distinctive characteristics), distinguished by its complex flavours (notes can range from fruity to floral, chocolatey to nutty, and much more), its specific traceable origin (unlike commodity coffee, which is often a blend of beans from different varieties, farms, regions), and the care taken at every stage of its production (sustainable growing methods, careful harvesting techniques, innovative processing, expert roasting and artisanal brewing). Farmers are the most-valuable players in specialty coffee!
In short, specialty coffee is much more than just an everyday drink. It’s a complex taste experience that highlights the meticulous work of the growers and roasters, as well as the subtle nuances of the coffee beans themselves.The SCA sets standards and guidelines for coffee quality and sustainability practices, helping to ensure that consumers can enjoy high-quality coffee experiences worldwide. The SCA is a global non-profit organization that focuses on promoting a common language and best practices within the coffee industry. It provides resources, training, and certifications for coffee professionals, including baristas, roasters, and coffee growers
Specialty coffee: on the ground
In order to qualify as a specialty coffee, everything starts at the very heart of the plantations. Most of these specialty coffees come from small farms located in the so-called coffee-belt where the coffee is not grown en masse and where meticulous care is taken during cultivation and harvesting. The terroir, the environment and ethics are all essential factors.
Harvest time
In the coffee fields, the farmer harvests the fruits of the coffee tree, called “cherries”, which contain the beans (mostly 2 beans per cherry except for peaberries). The cherries are expertly picked by hand to select only the ripest ones for the best green coffee quality.
Once harvested, the next step is to process the cherries and finally extract the beans. Various possible processing techniques exist, one known as “natural”, where the cherries (which are once again sorted to keep only the ripest and remove “floaters”) are spread out on raised beds or “patios” and left to dry in the sun (10 to 30 days). Another method (most common processing method in the coffee industry), involves depulping the cherries, washing them in water (for 18 to 24 h) and then the coffee are dried (for a much shorter time). This is known as “washed” or “wet” coffee.
The processing method will have a considerable impact on the final taste of the coffee. The natural method produces a much more complex result in terms of the flavor profile of the beans. The washed coffee method, on the other hand, will produce a uniform result with clean acidity.
At Collette, Thomas prefers ‘natural processed’ beans (for now!). “With this method I know that the body of the beans will be powerful and the flavor profile interesting for our clients to experience.”
Coffee beans with defects : you shall not pass!
Once dry, the green coffee beans are carefully sorted. After sorting a randomly selected sample (350g), the beans must not show primary defects (black or mouldy beans, for example) and no more than 5 so-called “secondary” defects, such as wilted beans, hulls or malformed beans.
The next step is cupping by certified testers known as Q-graders using the official SCA cupping form. The grader evaluates the sensorial aspects like flavor & aroma, body, acidity, aftertaste, balance and uniformity. At the tasting stage, only coffee with a score of at least 80/100 can be certified as a specialty coffee.
“Once the beans are processed and sorted by size they are filled in grain-pro bags and jute sacks (60kg) to ensure that no external factors influence the coffee quality. Packaging is essential, because it’s a long journey to us! On receipt, we use a tool to check the moisture content. Ideally the moisture content is between 8 – 12 %” explains Thomas, hence, the key role of the roaster to ensure quality up until the end.
The key role of the roaster
The roaster’s main role is to respect the excellence of the product and the hard work by the farmer by treating it as expertly as possible. “Roasting doesn’t improve the quality of green coffee, you just have to make it stand out !” Thomas likes to say.
Before starting the process, the brewing method must be considered: coffee beans for espresso will not be roasted in the same way as for pour-over. “You have to work out the right roasting profile, then reproduce it with each roast, because customers expect to find the same flavor profile in the same coffee the next time again.” explained Thomas.
One thing is certain, neither baristas nor specialty coffee experts are invented. It’s a real science that needs to be studied to ensure that the best coffee is served in the final consumer’s cup. And they want more.
Many thanks to Thomas for sharing with us his extensive knowledges about specialty coffee!
Some places where to enjoy a specialty coffee in Luxembourg (non exhaustive list): Collette Coffee Craft (Vianden), Curious Buds (Lux Ville et Strassen), Intense Coffee (Limpertsberg), BIZ Coffee Roasters (Dudelange), Jolt (Esch Belval).