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Marc Berna produces expressive wines typical of the region and has mastered the barrel ageing process to perfection.
Like many other winegrowing families in Luxembourg, the Bernas initially earned their living with a mixed business of agriculture, livestock and viticulture. Back in the days, a lot of wine was still sold in barrels, but in the 1960s, Albert Berna took a leap and decided to bottle his crus and abandon the agricultural activity.
In 1978, his son Raymond took over the family business with his wife Mady Senninger, the daughter of a carpenter from Ehnen. Humbly and carefully, they expanded their business and made a name for themselves thanks to the fruity style of their expressive wines.
Studies in Geisenheim and in Vienna
Anne and Marc, their daughter and son, helped out in the vineyards as children. Later, however, Anne decided to become a teacher, and Marc was not particularly keen on becoming a professional winemaker either. “I was mainly interested in technology, physics, mathematics and computer science. “ But gradually he found himself fascinated by the vintner profession, so that after finishing secondary school he first did an internship at a local vintner in Nittel before studying viticulture and oenology in Geisenheim. He stayed there for three semesters and then moved to Vienna, where he received his final degree after another three semesters at the University of Natural Resources and Applied Life Sciences.
The Caves Berna own excellent vineyards such as Ahn Palmberg, Göllebour and Vogelsang as well as Wormeldingen Elterberg; their grounds have now grown to 7.8 hectares, harbouring all the classic types of grapes, from Elbling and Pinots to Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are now also considered among the “classic” grape varieties, at least among the common ones. Raymond Berna planted its first rows some time ago, “but we used the Chardonnay exclusively for the Crémant, and we didn’t grow the Pinot Noir in barrels yet,” says Marc Berna looking back.
Wood finishing specialist
And it is precisely this barrel ageing that has become a trademark of Caves Berna. Over time, Marc Berna has built himself a small but neat barrique cellar – which required extensive work at the main domain in Ahn. Over time, he acquired a profound know-how in barrel ageing. “It’s the result of trial and error,” smiles the jovial winemaker, who has tried different wooden barrels, “from different manufacturers and with different degrees of toast, to figure out what suits our wines and our style best. I prefer barrels that are not too toasted, and I also use 500-litre barrels because they accommodate the wines better.”
In a good year, Berna also produces two Pinots Noirs, a lighter one with fewer barrique notes, and the “Grande Réserve,” a red wine in a class of its own – the 2020, for example, a model of balance and depth with a delicate finish, can easily compete with great bottles of the Bourgogne! The Grande Réserve always comes from the same vineyards and from low yields. No more than 1500 bottles of these noble drops have ever been produced in a single year – a real curiosity!
Marc Berna’s favourite varieties are Pinot Noir and Riesling. “The latter because of its freshness, its subtlety and diversity, and for the production of Pinot Noir you need passion and dedication,” he emphasises. Values that are also reflected in his personal life: Marc and his wife Anne Schill are parents of two young children, Liz and Franz, who naturally require a lot of love and attention. “Which can sometimes be quite demanding, but thanks to good organisation and the help of my wife, I get to do both,” emphasises the young entrepreneur.
Waiting for the new Cuvée Mystique
The Caves Berna produce around 50,000 to 60,000 bottles per year, with two Crémant cuvées making out about 20 per cent. The Cuvée Brut is an assemblage of traditional grape varieties, the highly praised Cuvée Mystique an extremely successful blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The new cuvée from the 2020 vintage will be released by the end of this year or in early 2023. And maybe, one day, there will be a crémant-rosé from Caves Berna hints Marc: “That seems like the next logical step, but I don’t want to sacrifice grapes that I urgently need for my red wines and the rosé. But if the harvest is right, then this could be an option.”
CAVES BERNA
7, rue de la Résistance — L-5401 Ahn
Tel. +352 / 76 02 08